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Welcome, Sacramento Home Winemakers! • View topic - 2008 Barbera Club Project

2008 Barbera Club Project

Members are encouraged to participate in the Club Winemaking Project. Each year at harvest, partipants have the opportunity to join together on the same day to take delivery of grapes at a selected vineyard. Usually grapes arrive picked and are crushed on site. White grapes are typically pressed on site. Winemakers then follow a planned protocol for making up to 5 gallons of wine for evaluation one year later. The club offers 50% reimbursement of the cost of grapes for making up to 5 gallons of wine. You must be a member to have your wine evaluated and you must submit two 750ml bottles of wine to be evaluated in order to be reimbursed. It's incredible how much we learn and how different the wines all taste!

2008 Barbera Club Project

Postby lynnkeay » Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:17 pm

:D Get ready for an early 2008 harvest on September 7! The 2008 red varietal for the Club Project is Barbera. Dry Town Cellars in Amador County sponsored the harvest and crush at $0.73/lb ready to carry. The target brix is 24.5 and PH 3.2. Our vineyard grower is Josh Lyman in the Plymouth area. Dry Town Cellars is located at 16030 Highway 49, Drytown, CA. If you need additional information, email the Project Sponsor, Lynn Keay at Lynn.keay@gmail.com.
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Re: 2008 Barbera

Postby Gin » Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:12 am

Some winemakers noted that barbera may be a little more complicated to make than other reds, maybe due to the longer hang time (resulting in higher brix) to balance the acid. D.D. Smith will be giving pointers on making barbera at the afternoon session of Winemaking 101B on August 2. If you're interested in coming to that, please let me know at ginyangstaehlin@yahoo.com or 916 217 0294.
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Re: 2008 Barbera

Postby chrisminnick » Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:24 pm

chrisminnick
 
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Re: 2008 Barbera

Postby shw » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:47 pm

Tips for Making Great B A R B E R A ;) courtesy of SHW Chief Judge, DD Smith 8-)

Note: Barbera is one of the most popular wines in Italy – it’s a working class wine generally made in a lighter style. It’s spritzy with cherry fruit and ready to drink while young. The vines are prolific; 5-tons an acre are possible even with aggressive pruning. The result, at least in Italy, is a popular and inexpensive table wine.

In California, the industry generally views Barbera differently – the trend is to make a big, complex cellared wine. That means cold soaking; extended masceration, MLF, and frequently careful blending may come into play.

From the winemaker’s standpoint, Barbera is a high-acid, low tannin wine which can have color extraction problems.

Of course, start with good fruit. We believe the Club Project fruit will be top notch – so this shouldn’t be a problem.
Harvest brix will be a compromise between sugar level and coping with the typically high acid (.8 to 1.2 grams per liter). When you get this must home, immediately check the pH and the TA. If the pH is below 3.2 and the TA is above about .8, and addition of potassium bicarbonate will probably be necessary after fermentation.
Consider adding pectic enzyme before fermentation to aid in color extraction (2.5 to 5.0 grams per 100 liters).
Once pH is determined, add KMBS to .5 molecular (see table).
Color extraction and fruit can be enhanced by “cold soaking” the must prior to fermentation. Even getting the must to 60-deg for 24-hrs will help. Colder is better – go 48-hrs if you can.
Bring the must temperature to 65-deg or greater for inoculation. Pasteur Red, BM 45, PDM or D-254 are good yeast choices. Allow the temperature to peak at 85 – 89-deg during fermentation. Primary fermentation will probably be 4 to 6 days.

The primary means to reduce acid levels in Barbera is MLF. Barbera also contains high amounts of malic acid, so MLF is really effective in improving mouthfeel. I like Enoferm Alpha: Inoculate when brix is below 5-deg, pH is 3.2 or greater, temperature is 62 to 77-deg and sulfites are in the 10 to 20ppm range or less. If you have doubts about sulfites, you may consider omitting step 4.
Once primary is finished, some winemakers extend the masceration for a few weeks by keeping the must under a CO2 blanket. The already low tannin levels present in Barbera may obviate this task,
For a fruity wine, rack it off the lees within 10 to 14 days after pressing.
Since potassium bicarbonate was probably added, it is highly desirable to COLD STABILIZE this wine: Watch for a cold stretch this winter and put your wine outside for as many nights as you can. Potassium bitartrate crystals should form, which you can rack off. FYI: Wine typically freezes at about 24-deg.
Barbera is a great candidate for OAK. Whether it’s in the barrel or with chips, this wine benefits from the light vanilla flavor provided by oak.
After six or eight months, if the wine still is too acid to the taste, it’s time for your Ace in the Hole: Blending. A sharp Barbera winemaker makes sure he has a high-pH, low acid wine ready to go if needed. Make, beg or borrow some wine and bench test it with your Barbera to achieve the taste you’re looking for.
Like any red cellared wine, it should not be bottled before 18-months.
shw
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LAB ANALYSIS - YAN or ?

Postby shw » Mon Sep 08, 2008 12:12 pm

A YAN analysis (see results below) to determine Yeast Assimilible Nitrogen (YAN)--used to assess the nutritional status of juice, and help the winemaker plan appropriate additions of nutrients to minimise the possibility of a stuck ferment. YAN is the sum of Amino Acid Nitrogen (AAN) and Ammonia Nitrogen (AN). The YAN test showed the YAN (nitrogen) was already high, therefore no DAP (nitrogen) is needed to start the yeast fermentation. It would make it too high. I am told that if the YAN is too high, the fermentation will proceed too quickly, possibly get stuck and most assuredly produce a low quality wine. So, feeding the yeast in high YAN "must" will only make matters worse. Keeping the must a bit cooler could slow the fermentation down if you find it is proceeding too quickly (in case you already added DAP). Typically, you would use DAP to bring nitrogen up to the normal range of 225 to 275ppm if the test showed a deficiency. This may also help avoid any H2S problems from starting after the first few days of fermentation.

INITIAL TEST RESULTS:

YAN (offered by Thomas St. Charles) 9/9/08:
Nitrogen, Amino Acids NOPA - 146 ppm
Ammonia Nitrogen, Enzymatic - 146 ppm
Total Yeast Available Nitrogen - 292 ppm

DD Smith 9/7/08:
pH = 3.19
TA = 1.076 (average of two runs – 1.088 and 1.065)
Brix = 25.4
Potential Alcohol = 14.24

Mike Anderson 9/8/08:
Three tests average out to:
Brix - 25.67
pH - 3.28
TA - .9871
shw
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Re: 2008 Barbera Club Project

Postby chrisminnick » Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:15 pm

Here are my numbers (I had the pH and TA tested at Revolution Wines):

pH 3.23
TA 1.095
26.8 Brix

Brix was a bit higher than the other numbers I'm seeing, but I tested with both a hydrometer and refractometer and got the same result. I think we got our grapes a little later than other so they may have come from a little riper row.

I'm really happy with the way things are looking so far with these. Thanks for getting the YAN test...that's really interesting and good information!
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Re: 2008 Barbera Club Project

Postby Donna » Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:37 pm

Hi all -

My barbera is now safely in carboys, finishing fermenting. Is anyone else worried about how tart the wine tasts at this point? If you are an interventionist, what are you doing? Lowering the TA, planning on ML, or cold stabilization, or blending with a lower acid wine?

Donna
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Re: 2008 Barbera Club Project

Postby Lynn Keay » Tue Mar 17, 2009 11:29 am

By now, everyone who participated in the project should have their Barbera just sitting there doing, well......nothing! I spoke with winemaker Allen Kreutzer at Drytown Cellars in the Fall. He advised me to "let the wine sit" for two years before expecting it to taste good and ready to bottle. We've had what, seven months now? This is high acid wine, remember? Test the PH and take a reading to confirm your numbers. I am told, as long as it is this high in acid, you need not worry about adding sulfites because the higher acid will prevent bacterias from growing. Just keep your containers full to minimize headspace and subsequent oxidation. Now, this would be a good time to consider using some french oak additives if you have it stored in glass or stainless steel. Be careful not to go overboard, but follow directions and taste it periodically to be sure it doesn't overwhelm the fruit character. If you use beans or larger chunks or sticks, you can rack them out when done. Remember, August is Project Evaluation but you won't necessarily want to bottle it all by then. I plan to leave mine sitting for the recommended two years (as hard as that is!). It is starting to taste pretty good already.

Lynn
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